We’re off – HCP Sign at Pigeon Bridge Campground

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The High Country Pathway (HCP) is an 80 mile loop trail located in the northeast tip of Michigan’s Lower Peninsula (roughly 20 miles northeast of Gaylord, Michigan). According to the Pigeon River Country Association, the HCP “is one of the Lower Peninsula’s best opportunities for a near-wilderness experience. * * * It was originally designed to provide the enthusiastic backpacker with roughly one week of high quality outdoor adventure.”

Trail Maps:

Map 1a
Map 1b This is a high resolution version of Map1a which allows zooming in/enlarging to see details.
Map 2 A low resolution copy of the map key for the 1997 trial map published by the Pigeon River Country Association.

An improved and updated 2007 topographical map with campground, milage, connecting trails, and other hiker friendly information can be ordered online from the Pigeon River Country Association ($7.50 + $1.50 postage and handling) or purchased for $7.50 at the Village Market, 8070 Mill Street, Vanderbilt, MI.

Directions: Take I-75 to the Vanderbilt exit. Turn east off the exit ramp and drive to the center of town. Turn east on Main Street (the only traffic light in town). Main Street becomes E. Sturgeon Valley Road. Continue approximately 10 miles. Immediately after crossing the Pigeon River, there is a parking area for HCP users on the south side of the road. The Pigeon Bridge State Forest Campground is on the north side of the road directly opposite the parking area. Potable water is available at the campground. At the north end of the campground is a large sign marking the start of the High Country Pathway and Shingle Mill Pathway. (Or, if you want to proceed in a counterclockwise direction, the trail to Round Lake is on the east side of the parking area. There is no sign identifying the trail but the well-beaten path is obvious.)

If you want to start at a different point on the HCP, there are three other officially designated parking areas: (1) On the west side of Camp 30 Road where it crosses the HCP. (2) At the Shoepac Lake day use area – which is beside a road walk section of the trail. (3) On the north side of the loop where the HCP uses Black River Road to cross the Black River.

Trail conditions: The HCP is generally well marked with signs, blue blazes, and blue triangular trail markers. However, some of the blazes are very faded and there were several sharp turns and road crossings where it took a few minutes of searching to find the next blaze.

The quality of the trail varies considerably: from clear and well trod firm soil to wet and muddy to plowing through waist and chest high underbrush (especially ferns) overgrowing and obscuring the trail to bog bridges that can be extremely slippery when wet to a faint, barely perceptible track through grass. It appeared some portions (especially the northern third) had seen little recent use. Much of the trail is in need of serious maintenance.

The terrain is mostly flat. There are a number of ups and downs, but none are extraordinarily strenuous. A lot of the trail passes through fairly open areas which exposes hikers to the sun for long periods. In late June, 2008, the mosquitoes, ticks, and biting flies were bad, especially on the northern half.

I would rate the difficulty of HCP as moderate, not because of the terrain, but because of other factors: Some portions are remote and many are poorly maintained. There are sections where good campsites are few and far between; likewise for water sources. The bugs can be quite bothersome. And while there is a scattering of scenic spots and a variety of ecosystems, most of the HCP appears nondescript unless one has developed an eye for and appreciation of subtleties. An experienced backpacker will have little problem planning and preparing for and dealing with the conditions encountered. However, a beginner is likely to be challenged. Perhaps more important, a beginner may find the experience to be less enjoyable than what s/he imagined.

Distances between selected landmarks:

Pigeon Bridge Campground to Pigeon River Campground – 3 miles
Pigeon River Campground to where the HCP splits off from Shingle Mill Pathway above Grass Lake – 3.7 miles
HCP/SMP split to Pine Grove Campground – 5.4 miles
Pine Grove Campground to where spur trails cutoff to McLeavy Lake and Duby Lake – 10.3 miles
McLeavy Lake/Duby Lake cutoff to Canada Creek shelter – 10.0 miles
Canada Creek shelter to Shoepac Lake Campground – 5.7 miles
Shoepac Lake Campground to the cutoff to Tomahawk Lake Campground – 0.8 miles
Tomahawk Lake Campground cutoff to the cutoff to Clear Lake State Park – 11.9 miles
Clear Lake State Park cutoff to Rattlesnake Hill – 11.1 miles
Rattlesnake Hill to the cutoff to Town Corner Lake Campground – 9.7 miles
Town Corner Lake Campground cutoff to the cutoff to Round Lake Campground – 6.4 miles
Round Lake Campground cutoff to Pigeon Bridge Campground – 1.2 miles

Camping: The HCP passes through or near eight State Forest Campgrounds and Clear Lake State Park. If you plan to overnight at one or more State Forest Campgrounds, you will have to pay a $15 fee at each SFCG you use. Payment must be made in cash or by check – so remember to bring exact change or your checkbook. Camping at Clear Lake State Park costs a bit more ($19 when I stayed there) but there is an attendant to make change, hot showers, and a soft drink machine.

At Canada Creek, there is a shelter with four bunk beds. There is no charge to use the shelter. While the structure is in good condition, the insect screen spanning the front has several large tears. It’s a nice location with a picnic table, fire pit, and space to tent. The water source is Canada Creek, which is only a short walk down the trail.

Because the spacing of these developed campsites is erratic, hiking the entire length of the HCP will necessitate at least a couple of nights of backcountry camping unless you are able to do long miles.

Dispersed camping is permitted on the State Forest lands adjacent to the HCP as long as: (1) the area is not posted “No Camping,” (2) your campsite is at least one mile from a State Forest Campground, (3) your campsite is at least 100 feet from the trail, (4) your campsite is at least 100 feet from water, and (5) a Camp Registration Card is posted at the campsite.

Camp Registration Cards can be obtained at no cost (1) at any DNR Field Office (I got mine at the Gaylord Office on the way up.), (2) at the Pigeon River Country Forest Headquarters and Information Center which is located on the HCP about 3.5 miles north of the Pigeon Bridge Campground (and also accessible by road), and (3) by emailing the DNR and asking to have the cards mailed to you. (I wouldn’t recommend this method. I tried and never got a response.)

In my opinion, the current Camp Registration Card system doesn’t make any sense for backcountry camping. The card is 8.5 x 11 inches in size. The required information must be printed in pencil. The completed card must be posted on a tree or other object at the campsite. The card must be left at the campsite at departure.

These requirements mean a hiker must carry a separate card for each night s/he plans to camp in the backcountry. S/he must also take a pencil to complete the cards and string or some other means of attaching them to an object at the campsite. And leaving the card upon departure seems contrary to “Leave No Trace” principles, especially since it is unlikely a DNR official will ever find it. The practical effect is to require backpackers to leave litter behind at their campsites.

Why not use a self-registration system like those commonly used elsewhere? – A hiker obtains and completes a permit and deposits a carbon copy in a collection box at the trail head. The original is attached to the outside of his or her pack while hiking and then disposed of or deposited in another collection box at the end of the hike.

Water sources: Clear Lake State Park and all the State Forest Campgrounds have potable water. In between, water can be obtained from rivers, creeks, and lakes. But their spacing is such that some planning is required. I usually carry two liters of water which is typically enough for 8 - 12 miles, depending on weather and other conditions. On this hike, despite four days with high temperatures in the upper 80s and low 90s, I only had to carry extra water once. That was when I dry-camped about halfway between Rattlesnake Hill and Town Corner Lake Campground.

TRIP REPORT

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Tuesday, June 24, 2008 -- Pigeon Bridge Campground to Pine Grove Campground, 12.1 miles

It was a warm and sunny day. A light breeze occasionally made it down to ground level. The trail was well trod and easy: flat at first; then a series of mild to moderate ups and downs; finally, a long stretch of bog bridges as we approached the Pigeon River and Pine Grove Campground. To my surprise, there were very few bugs – until we hit the bog bridges. Hordes of mosquitoes and biting flies assailed us as we traversed the wetlands. In retrospect, we should have stopped and applied insect repellent. But we thought we were closer to the campground than we were. So we decided to just run (well, a fast walk actually) the gauntlet. It wasn’t too bad, except when I had to stop to retie a shoelace that had come undone.

The bridge over the Pigeon River was bent into a “V” in the center and tilted at a 20 degree angle. It looked like something massive floating downstream (ice maybe?) had smashed into it. A horizontal wood bar spanned the west end of walkway at waist height. Attached to the bar was a sign: “Bridge closed. Unsafe to cross.”

No surprise. Six miles back, a notice of the bridge closing had been posted where the trail crossed Tin Bridge Road. It informed hikers that the bridge was unsafe and directed them to follow a temporary reroute. Taking the reroute would have added miles to the day’s hike. It also would have meant bypassing two of the three scenic viewpoints marked on the trail map, one of which supposedly provided a chance to see the elk herd. We decided to risk continuing along the HCP, figuring we could ford the Pigeon River if we had to.

The campground was on the opposite bank and we weren’t about to backtrack. So we crossed.

Pine Grove Campground is one of the most secluded State Forest Campgrounds in Michigan. Since Jon and I were the only people there, we had our pick of campsites. A slow flowing artesian well provided potable water. There was a privy. Only a few mosquitoes bothered us and they disappeared as night settled in and the temperature cooled down. A campfire added ambiance.

It was a nice ending to a pleasant day. The scenery had been nothing special. We hadn’t seen any elk or other large wildlife. Nevertheless, it had been an enjoyable walk and I was content.

Just north of Pigeon Bridge Campground	Further north of Pigeon Bridge Campground	Moss on porch of log building at State Forest Headquarters

Next door -- the Pigeon River Country Information Center	Artesian well at Pigeon River Campground	Cornwall Flats -- Site of an old lumber mill

Grass Lake overlook. Where's the lake?	Bird Tally Creek viewpoint	Backwoods version of a portapotti

Damaged bridge over Pigeon River at Pine Grove Campground

Wednesday, June 25, 2008 – Pine Grove Campground to McLavey Lake, 10.3 miles

By the time we got going, the coolness of the morning seemed like a distant memory. It had warmed up rapidly and looked to be a hot day.

A short climb took us to the top of a high bank overlooking the Pigeon River. About a half-mile north of Pine Grove Campground we passed a open grassy area that would have made a beautiful campsite. Too bad the DNR rules prohibit dispersed camping within a mile of a state forest campground.

The trail turned away from the river. For awhile, it was easy, but nondescript, hiking through woods. Then the quality of the trail abruptly deteriorated.

It started with the ferns. They had overgrown the trail and all but obscured it. In some places, only the blazes on the trees kept us on track.

Then came the wood ticks. They were hanging out on the ferns and other underbrush waiting to hitch a ride on passersby. I transported seven of them today.

A long stretch of lowland trail began just west of Dog Lake. It was muddy, poorly maintained, and mosquito infested.

Sporadic clearings brought relief from the ferns, mud, ticks, and mosquitoes, but there were tradeoffs. We were exposed to the full impact of the sun and the heat of the day (which topped out in the high 80s in the shade). Biting flies buzzed and attacked. For some reason, they especially liked the bald spot on the crown of my head.

The spur trail to McLavey Lake quickly vanished into an unbroken expanse of ferns. Infrequent, faded blazes guided us as we bushwhacked uphill. The obvious lack of recent use had me wondering what kind of campsite we would find at the lake. It turned out to be a very nice spot.

After setting up camp, I went for a swim and rinsed out my sweat soaked clothes. Unfortunately, the mosquitoes were terrible, so as soon as I dried off I sought refuge in my tent. Jon was already in his. We spent the rest of the afternoon reading and dozing.

As evening approached, we ventured out long enough to cook dinner and do our other chores. But as soon as we were finished, we escaped back into our tents.

Just north of Pine Grove Campground. There's a trail there if you look closely.	Further north of Pine Grove Campground. I got tired of ferns and ticks.	Near Dog Lake. Mud, puddles, and blowdowns.

East of Dog Lake	East of Dog Lake	McLavey Lake campsite

McLavey Lake access

Thursday, June 26, 2008 – McLavey Lake to Shoepac Lake Campground, 15.7 miles

Between napping yesterday afternoon and turning in early, we’d gotten plenty of sleep, so we were up at 5:30 a.m. It was just as well. We were eager to leave. The morning shift of mosquitoes was famished and, over our objections, joined us for breakfast. In addition, the temperature was already 70 degrees. We wanted to make miles while it was still relatively cool.

Today’s hike was a repeat of yesterday’s – the same varied trail conditions and terrain except it was hotter (low nineties), buggier (12 ticks), and wetter (surface water combined with heavy dew on the greenery overhanging the trail).

Two-and-a-half to three miles of walking brought us to McCready’s Homestead. It looked like a decent place pitch a tent and there was a water source a short distance beyond.

I began the day with two liters of water but was down to a couple of swallows when, 10 miles later, we reached the Canada Creek Shelter. After taking a long break (during which we refilled our water bottles), we continued on. Crossing the bridge over Canada Creek made me feel like I was in an Indiana Jones movie. Two planks were missing and the rest were so worn and weathered that I wondered whether they would support my weight. I envisioned the bridge collapsing under my feet and plunging me into the creek below. All that was missing was pursuit by savage natives. (Okay, the heat may have been stoking my imagination.)

As we neared Shoepac Lake, the trail improved dramatically. The last mile-and-a-half paralleled the shoreline and was very scenic. This final stretch ended with a short road walk that intersected the trail head of the Sinkholes Pathway and the entrance to the state forest campground.

The lake was too enticing to pass by. Immediately after setting up camp, I walked into the water with my clothes on and lounged in the shallows. A half-hour of soaking transformed me from hot, tired, and grubby to cool, refreshed, and clean.

The campground also offered welcome relief from the mosquitoes that had plagued us for the better part of the last two days. But not the ticks. Despite the open ground and short grass, I added three more ticks to my count (which now totaled 19).

Bog bridge east of Duby Lake	McCready's Homestead	Black River

Bog bridge east of Black River	Between Black River and Canada Creek	Canada Creek shelter

Bridge over Canada Creek	East bank of Canada Creek	Between Canada Creek and Shoepac Lake

Shoepac Lake

Friday, June 27, 2008 – Shoepac Lake Campground to Clear Lake State Park, 12.7 miles

Morning side trip -- Sinkholes Pathway	Near Tomahawk Lake	View from south end of Tomahawk Creek Flooding

Another view from the south end of the Tomahawk Creek Flooding	Sign at Millersburg Road	Logging at Millersburg Road

Saturday, June 28, 2008 – Clear Lake State Park to near Growler Club Road, 16.6 miles

Gas transfer station south of Clear Lake	View from Rattlesnake Hill	Dry camp near Growler Club Road

Sunday, June 29, 2008 – Near Growler Club Road to Pigeon Bridge Campground, 10.5 miles