Step 12-Refinishing

Remove all of the old paint and rust from the metal parts. I invested in a small blasting cabinet since I already had an air compressor hangin' around the garage. Check with friends, neighbors, maybe even at work. Many maintenance departments or toolrooms have this equipment available. Clean every last piece of old paint and rust from the parts, inside and out. Don't forget the axles you could not clean in Step 8. Follow all safety precautions when using sand or media blasting equipment. Protect yourself.

After your metal parts have been stripped of all paint and rust, wash your parts. I use a stiff long bristle brush and a cleaner degreaser like 409. Make sure you remove any sand or media that managed to lodge itself in the cracks and crevices where the chassis mates to the pickup bed and where the rear fenders mate to the pickup bed and chassis. Not only am I removing the sand, I am also cleaning the part of any substance that would prevent the primer I will apply next, from adhering. I don't want to take a chance that any protectant, wax or like residue is left on the metal part. Throughly rinse in clean water. Let your parts dry completely. I use my trusty air compressor to blow the water off the parts. A hair dryer also speeds the drying process up.

Prime your bare metal parts as soon as possible. I live in arid El Paso, Texas. I can leave bare metal parts unprotected for weeks without a problem. However, many restorers may not be so lucky. In a moist environment, bare metal will start to oxidize, translated as rust, immediately. I prefer to use Eastwood Self Etching Primer. This stuff works great and you don't have to sand before applying the color coat. However, you can find other metal primers at your favorite auto parts store. Follow directions for use. Follow all safety rules when using aerosol primers.

Time for another tip. When I have to blast axles, I use another Eastwood product called Silver Cad. This aerosol lays down the look of cadmium plating and priming is not required prior to use. You may decide to use a "chrome like" aerosol paint found at your auto parts store. Follow the manufacture's directions for use.

It's finally time to add some color. If you are going to use aerosol paints from your local auto parts store, follow the manufacture's directions for use. (When the directions indicate "light coats", that's just what it means by the way.) Don't get carried away. Take your time. If your preparation up to this point has been flawless, why screw it up now? I try to paint all surfaces. Getting paint into the rear wheel wells can be a little tricky. No one will notice light coverage in the wheel well once the tire is in place. Besides, when that truck was brand spanking new, all "hidden surfaces" were not necessarily covered with paint, much less primer. If you decided to wander on down the your local auto paint store and have them color match to your sample, before you blast them, the above steps still work. Unfortunately, your wallet will end up a tad lighter because you had to pay 7 to 10 times more for the paint. I've gone both ways. And I still may have to visit the local PPG dealer to color match the mint green and turquoise I can't find over the counter at the auto parts store. You've heard this before, and it cannot be stressed enough, follow the manufacture's directions for use and follow all safety precautions. Before proceeding to the next step, let your parts dry completely and then some. Depending on the ambient air temperature, I have let parts dry for days.