OK, hopefully you havn't got too pissed off and smashed anything...but even if you did, a properly constructed helm top should have withstood it :)! back too helm building... here's the pattern for the lower sections I'm using. These can be varied depending on what you want the overall helm to look like ( I know, DUH!). It also matters where you want the cheek pieces to line up. Since I want wide cheek pieces, I'm going to line them up on the rear edge of the side spangen. There are no set "rules" as to how or where you line these up unless you're trying to reproduce a specific helm, just besure you can see out of the front! |
pics coming soon! |
Trace the pattern for the cheek pieces and cut them out. Make sure both are identical! If they're not, your helm wont be very symmetric when you're done! Using a rubber mallet and whatever forming aid (anvil horn, pipe) curve the rear half of the pieces to the curvature of the sides of the helm. You can curve the lower forward sections as much or as little as you want, depending on what you want the profile of the helm to be. On this one, the forward section will stick out a bit from the helm. On this helm, I like it because it looks better, and most people's noses are not flush with their face! For me personally, I have an enhanced olfactory system and have to bring the forward section out quite a bit! If you're going to "curl out" the lower edge..or any edge for that matter, do it now. |
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Pre drill the base spangen on your helm top. Place the cheek pieces where you want them and match drill ONE hole. (I'm using 1/8" rivets on the lower portion of this helm.) Make sure the cheek piece is sitting how you want it. If it is, match drill the second hole and rivet. If it isn't, drill out the rivet and try again using the front hole...don't screw up the second time...you're out of holes. (If you do mess up the second time, widen out one of the holes in the cheek piece until it sits how you want it then rivet...or, simply move the piece forward or back 1/4" and start over.) |
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Now cut out the rear skirting. I just made a basic plain ol' skirting that angles out slightly from the helm and has about 1" of flare at the bottom. I angled it out a bit because it looks better this way. If you leave it straight, it looks kinda like the old freon can helms to me! Measure your helm top's inside circumference (distance along the inside edge)Use this as the top edge measurement of YOUR pattern. Some people like to leave a small gap between the cheek piece and rear skirting. that looks cool on some helms and helps cut the "gong effect", but I'm making this one almost flush between the two pieces. Curve this piece to the curvature of the helmtop base. (NOTE: Rough polish the pieces before riveting and it will save you a lot of trouble in the end.) Place it in the helm top and match drill the holes in the rearward most part (the ones directly below the centerline spangen). Rivet these in and do the same for the other holes/rivets, working your way towards the sides. If everything was lined up right (and measured right), your rear skirting should fit how you wanted next to the cheek pieces. Now, flare the bottom edges of the rear piece. here's some pics of mine at this point. |
 
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| PART III- Finishing |